Ports of Call: Gorgeous Grenada
by Chris GoodierWhen itineraries are considered for cruising yachts, some islands—like Grenada—stand out by delivering a complete package. On the “Spice Island,” yacht guests discover the Caribbean of their dreams—lush volcanic hills, clean beaches, and friendly local people. Meanwhile, the captain and crew enjoy a strong support system—marinas, boatyards, provisioning, skilled technicians, and plentiful marine supplies—to keep the boat running smoothly.
Grenada (pronounced Gra-nay-da) is in the Windward Islands at the foot of the Eastern Caribbean’s southward curve and earned its nickname by producing as much as 40% of the world’s nutmeg supply through a spice industry now rebuilding following tree damage from 2004’s Hurricane Ivan.
The island is compact at 21 miles long and 12 miles wide with a lush rain forest interior and the capital of St. George’s on the lower west coast. Look for marinas and yachting services clustered within the island’s south bays. Nearby Point Salines International Airport has weekly direct flights to London and frequent service to the rest of the Caribbean.
St. George’s harbor is embraced by the hills around two inlets known locally as The Carenage and The Lagoon. The pretty town bustles all around The Carenage and has an open air market where guests can pause for a refreshing drink of coconut milk from the husk as local office workers do.
The Lagoon adjacent to the Carenage is home to British developer Peter de Savary’s new Port Louis Marina, which welcomed its first customer in September this year. The Victory Bar has been open since summer in what de Savary describes as his creole village area—a group of wood frame West Indian-style buildings with red roofs at water’s edge, one slated to house Customs and Immigration.
De Savary says that the rest of the marina village will be built in a traditional style similar to historic Nelson’s Dockyard at Antigua’s English Harbour, with masonry buildings and cobblestone streets. He plans to entice megayachts with an eventual 350 slips for yachts up to 100 meters, planned five-star hotel, spa, arts center, chandlery, and other services.
“We’re planning special entertainment for Christmas,” says Marina and Village Manager Danny Donelan, who reports that the first phase of Port Louis will be open in December. Cleanup, dredging, and seawall construction in The Lagoon was moving forward rapidly in October for the new facility.
Exploring the island with a rental car, guests will find good, paved roads for quick access into the lush countryside where eco-adventures await—hiking through the rain forest and swimming at the base of waterfalls like those at Annandale Falls.
At Belmont Estate, a guide will explain how tree-grown cocoa pods are brought down from the hills, processed into cocoa beans, and turned into addictively-delicious, certified-organic chocolate bars nearby at the Grenada Chocolate Company’s little, solar powered factory.
“We produce the best quality nutmeg and cocoa in the world,” says Port Louis’ Donelan. Yacht chefs who use Valrohna in recipes will want to try these dark, artisanal bars made with either 60% or 71% cocoa.
For beach days Grenada offers multiple choices, some in coves accessible by dinghy along the south shore. Easy to reach by car and best known are Grand Anse and Morne Rouge, south of St. George’s. A favorite Sunday swimming spot for islanders is just off the airport road at The Aquarium, a quintessential Caribbean beach bar and restaurant on the sand where barbecued fresh lobsters, ribs, and other grilled meats are served all day.
Guests who dive will find clear waters filled with fish and a good selection of wrecks to explore. Snorkelers will love the underwater sculpture park at Molinere created by British artist Jason de Caires Taylor. In 15 to 25 feet of water, fish swim around life-sized figures on the ocean floor. Preview the sculptures at www.underwatersculpture.com.
Nearby Grenada to the north are sister islands Carriacou (Carry-a-koo) and Petite Martinique (Pitty Mar-ti-neek), as well as the Grenadines chain for cruising before or after your visit. With West Indian charm, plenty for your charter guests to do, and a growing infrastructure, Grenada’s yachting future is bright.
Arriving
Download a clearance form for Customs, Immigration, and the Ports Authority from http://www.grenadagrenadines.com. Click “Boating” and “Clearance Procedures,” fill in the form on your computer, print five copies, and save the file for future use.
Local cuisine: Fish Friday
Grenada is not known for nightlife except at the fishing village Gouyave (pronounced gwaahv) north of St. George’s. “It’s a town that never sleeps,” says Danny Donelan. “The men go out for four or five days at a time and when they come home, they party.” Drive up to mingle with Grenadians at the town’s weekly “Fish Friday.” For several blocks, vendors set up food stalls and grill seafood on the spot. Strollers wash down the moveable feast with locally-brewed Carib Beer or rum and take in free local entertainment at the music tent.
Grenada Movie Trivia:
DVDs for your onboard film library:
“Heartbreak Ridge” takes Clint Eastwood’s Marine sergeant to Grenada to rescue American students during Ronald Reagan’s 1983 military intervention. “Island in the Sun,” starring Joan Collins, Harry Belafonte, and other big names, released 50 years ago, is set in fictional “Santa Marta,” inspired by Grenada.